Sunday 30th
Ottawa and back to the UK
Antony returned to Ottawa on the 29th where he met up with Vijay who had been conducting research and logistical support for the expedition. Celebratary drinks followed with both
extremely happy that no injury had occurred and that they had made all the right decisions when needed. The expedition left Canada arriving into the UK on the morning of the 31st.
Read the Polarventure return press release here: Polarventure_Success.pdf
Expedition photo gallery now up: Click here
Friday 28th
Pangnirtung
During the last couple of days Antony visited the local school speaking to seven different year groups on climate change and his time skiing to Pangnirtung.
The students were really keen to find out about England and why I wanted to ski solo in winter. He also visited a local craft centre which has been set up during
the 70’s to help promote Inuit art and generate much needed jobs within the community. He met and interviewed a number of the artists including Andrew Qappik who
designed the Nunavut flag and coat of arms. There are very few jobs here and the craft centre helps generate much needed jobs as well as promote traditional Inuit art.
Wednesday 26th
Arrival in Pangnirtung
Antony has completed his solo crossing of the Akshayuk Pass and arrived at 5pm in Pangnirtung. After waiting for the winds to subside over a period of three days he was able to push on yesterday covering some 17 miles. With continuing strong winds, grade 3 rapids and the pulk to haul the journey along the frozen river was difficult. He reports that without crampons he would not have been able to make it. He was able to ski the entire way into Pangnirtung today.
Antony is feeling exhausted but is "chuffed" and well. He has covered some 200km over the trip in arduous weather conditions - a tremendous achievement to rightly be proud of.
Monday 24th
Winds make progress impossible
Antony reports that the snow has ceased falling but the winds are still too high to make any progress. "The high tail winds push the pulk from behind you sidewards pushing you off-balance" Antony reports. Last night winds reached 50kmph. He will have to stay put for a third day but the weather reports say no winds for tomorrow.
Saturday 22nd
Blizzard, Antony waits it out
9.30am: The blizzard has not decreased in strength over the night and as there is no rush Antony has decided to wait it out. He has plenty of food and fuel and the only real question is how not to get bored sitting in a tent all day.
4.30pm: "The blizzard is coming in full force so definitely the right decision to stay put. Its only six miles from Windy Lake [for a possible pick up] and only 30 miles to Pangnirtung so it will only take a couple of good days to get out" Antony said.
Friday 21st
Onto thin ice, weather closes in
Today Antony reported good weather for the morning and early afternoon. However there appears to be surface water on the river and lakes which questions the thickness and safety. Not trusting the ice Antony opted for the safe but arduous valley sides which has severly reduced his progress. It was a hard two miles over the moraine (rock debris left by retreating glaciers) before a further nine miles to reach Summit Lake. From there it was another six miles to the basin of Phor mountain - however the true distance covered was much more allowing for the constant meandering and navigation problems of travelling on the side of the valley.
After midday the weather closed in, "The temperature has dropped to well below -50C with windchill and it a whiteout. It was tough to get the tent up in such conditions but its well secured". Depending on the weather tomorrow Antony may stay put but is only six miles to Windy Lake where he could get picked up if required.
Antony also got a better look at Norman Glacier on his way through, "the glacier looks very accessible and I could even see the Penny Ice Cap on the top of it". Click on picture to see the large route guide.
Thursday 20th
At the foot of Norman Glacier
Covering a further 10 miles today has put Antony at the foot of Norman glacier. This is the glacier that the team would have descended off the ice cap from if everything went to plan. "At first glance the glacier looks very accessible and perfect for a descent of the icecap." said Antony although he will pass closer for a better look midday tomorrow. He has now reached the highest point of the pass and from here on to Pangnirtung it is downhill. Equally as important from here onwards the headwind changes to a tailwind and instead of impeding his progress it will aid it.
Wednesday 19th
50km over the last three days
Antony sped along today completing 20km making his total distance covered over the last three days over 50km. "The windswept nature of the valley means that the pulk glides easily over the ice and tundra". He is going to move slower from now on as he is coming into the most scenic part of the route and is only 30km away from the famous Mt. Asgard.
Yesterday night Antony stepped out of the tent to 'take a leak' and was greeted face-to-face with an arctic fox. "It was about 10m away and after seeing me came plodding up very curiously. He came right up close to me eyeing me curiously before marking his territory and wandering off. I just stood there transfixed". The temperature is down to -35C and winds are gusting at 20mph which reduces the temperature considerably.
Tuesday 18th
Storm blows over, good progress made
Yesterday the temperature dropped down to -65C with windchill. It is in these conditions that a solo-attempt is at its trickiest - if the tent blew away whilst trying to put it up it would be catastrophic. Antony has 4 ice screws and snow stakes to help him anchor the tent down whilst putting it up which worked a treat in these harsh conditions. He camped with the Mitchemps trust group over the night who were making their way back due to lack of time. Luckily the storm reduced in strength over the night and he made good progress today. Antony said "Its so quiet and lonely, I spend my time reflecting on the time which I spent with the Inuits - experiences which I wish to share at some point.", Antony also expressed that if he continues with such progress he would reach Pangnirtung within seven days.
Monday 17th
Antony leaves for the pass, solo
For the last few days Antony has spent time with the local Inuit community in Qikiqtarjuaq where he has had the opportunity to discuss with them about how their lives are being affected by changes in the climate. Yesterday he joined the family that he had been living with for a large family get together in a summer cabin about an hour's snowmobile ride away from the settlement where they feasted on norwhale, caribou and seal - traditional Inuit foods that due to the availability of western comfort foods are not being eaten so much by the Inuit population resulting in dietary problems.
This morning Antony visited the local school and gave a talk on climate change to the local children. In the afternoon the snowmobile dropped Antony off to the pass where he will start his solo 150km journey through the Akshayuk Pass to Pangnirtung, the journey should take 10 days. At 5pm today he called in after making camp to say that everything is well but the conditions have deteriorated with gale force winds dropping the temperatures considerably.
Sunday 16th
Vijay returns to Ottawa, Antony to leave for pass tomorrow
In the capital of Baffin Island, Iqualuit, Vijay visited the local hospital. The Doctor said that the toes were starting to freeze pretty deeply but were got out in time before any permanent damage was
to set in. A full recovery is expected but feeling may not come back for a few weeks. The team's decision to turn back in good time was praised by the Doctors who see the aftermath of many less wise choices. Yesterday, Vijay arrived in Ottawa to a balmy -2.5C for a few days before heading back to the UK.
Antony has delayed his departure for the pass until tomorrow to allow time to be spent with the Inuit community of Qikiqtarjuaq and to service the equipment. He went on a seal hunting trip yesterday where the team caught two seals. The solo attempt of the pass will be a true testament to any explorer's survival discipline - skills which we all know that Antony has.
Of course the team is still disappointed by their decision to turn back but some words from polar explorer, Paul Deegan brought things into perspective:
It is not the critic who counts
Nor the man who points out how
the strong man stumbles
Or where the doer of deeds
Could have done better.
The credit belongs to the man
Who is actually in the arena;
Whose face is marred by dust
And sweat and blood;
Who know great enthusiasm,
Great devotion and the triumph
of achievement.
And who, at the worst, if he fails
At least fails while daring greatly -
So that his place shall never be
With those odd and timid souls
Who know neither victory nor defeat.
You've never lived until you've almost died.
For those who have had to fight for it
Life truly has a flavour
The protected shall never know.
- Theodore Roosevelt
'Citizenship in a Republic',
23 April 1910, the Sorbonne, Paris
Friday 14th
Vijay returns to Iqualuit, Antony prepares for solo Akshayuk Pass crossing
Vijay took a flight to Iqualuit this morning. He is well, but as a precaution he will see a doctor to double check. After this he will make his way back to the UK.
Antony is on his way from Qikiqtarjuaq by snow mobile to his starting point to make the solo Akshayuk Pass expedition. The conditions this year are better with settled, clear weather although it is colder. Last year Antony had to abandon that attempt due to poor weather conditions. He is very motivated to reach Pangnirtung as soon as possible.
Thursday 13th
Return Qikiqtarjuaq via Okoa Bay
Vijay and Antony made rapid progress descending the glaciers, covering some 16-17km in one day. The team developed an efficient technique for hauling their kit over the fragmented glacier at the lower end covering that section in just three hours. They arrived in Qikiqtarjuaq last night by snow mobile from Okoa Bay.
Antony elaborated more on their decision to abandon their attempt on the Penny Ice Cap. When they reached the foot of the final glacier onto the Penny Ice Cap on Tuesday evening they were elated. They had found their rhythm and flow, they worked superbly as a team and, having overcome probably the hardest part of the expedition up the glaciers, were hugely optimistic. Their estimate was that is would be another 2 days onto the ice cap, followed by 7 across the ice cap itself and then another 5 days to reach Pangnirtung. But within half an hour the reality of the risk posed by Vijay's condition became apparent - they knew they had no choice but to turn back.
Despite feeling "a bit gutted" both Vijay and Antony are happy with all the major decisions they made. The expedition was a great success in that regard; the decisions were all sound, the developed excellent technique and teamwork and witnessed first hand the deterioration of the glaciers due to global warming.
Wednesday 12th
Decision to turn back
From the team's current position at the foot of the glacier it's another 3-4 days onto the ice cap itself. However, for the past few days Vijay has been suffering from poor circulation to the feet and has lost feeling in them. His feet are not responding well enough to heat. There is no danger at the moment but the team has decided to turn back in the interest of safety.
Needless to say they are both very disappointed especially given their good progress and acclimatisation over the past two days. But as Vijay says, "the sign of a successful expedition is one where you return with all your bits intact".
The return journey to Qikiqtarjuaq will take about 3 days. Once there they will give time for their kit to dry out. The plan then is for Antony to traverse the Akshayuk Pass, a journey of some ten days to Pangnirtung. The Akshayuk Pass skirts the eastern side of the Penny Ice Cap.
The weather has changed from clear to almost white out with some snow. Temperatures in Qikiqtarjuaq are -25C, wind-chill to -38.
Tuesday 11th
Reached foot of final glacier before Penny Ice Cap
Antony and Vijay made good progress today covering some 8km; excellent speed for the terrain. The team are also becoming acclimatised to the temperature. By nighttime they reached the final glacier onto the ice cap.
Monday 10th
Up the glacier over a difficult landscape
The team are continuing to make their way up the glacier toward the ice cap across difficult terrain. They expect to take two to three days to reach the ice cap.
Sunday 9th
Strong evidence of the impact of global warming on the glacier
This morning Antony and Vijay started their journey up and onto the glacier.
The team have witnessed strong evidence of the impact of global warming on the area. They report the glacier is heavily crevassed and has receded by approximately 4km - much further than expected. Given that this is a northern facing glacier this magnitude of melting is rapid.
The pulks glide well over snow and ice. However the heavy crevassing means the team cannot man-haul the pulks fully laden and have to make multiple return journeys over the rugged terrain to ferry their loads piecemeal. Consequently the team made a distance of only 2km. If the glacier continues to prove so crevassed, dramatically slowing progress, the team will have no option but to turn back given the difficulty of rescue.
The glacier is in a spectacular U shaped valley with only snow and ice as far as the eye can see. The temperature is bitterly cold; -30C during the day and -40C at night. This is much colder than during Antony's expedition last year. Fortunately there is little wind despite fast moving cloud but the conditions remain clear.
At the foot of the glacier Vijay and Antony came across polar bear tracks, but no bears. The local Inuit have not gone up the glacier and seem to consider Antony and Vijay more than a little crazy for wanting too. Polar bears seem to agree with the Inuit and will not be found on the glacier either.
Saturday 8th
To Okoa Bay
After reaching Qikiqtarjuaq by plane yesterday Vijay and Antony took a six-hour snow mobile ride from Qikiqtarjuaq to Okoa Bay, which is near the foot of the glacier the team will ascend.
Here is a Google map showing the location of Okoa Bay in relation to the Penny Ice Cap. The team will head south up the glacier to the ice cap.
Thursday 6th March - PM
To Qikiqtarjuaq?
The view from the plane was spectacular and awe inspiring. Qikiqtarjuaq felt tantalisingly close; within an hour in fact. The weather too was perfect. Could anything possibly go wrong? Well, yes. The flight from Iqualiut to Qikiqtarjuaq makes a brief stop in Pangnirtung (a.k.a "Pang"), which is just an hour flying time to Qikiqtarjuaq. On this last leg the plane developed an electrical fault. There was no safety issue, however if it had landed in Qikiqtarjuaq there was a risk the plane would not be able to take off again. Unfortunately it could not be repaired in Pangnirtung and had to return all the way to Iqualiut! Vijay and Antony expect to be on their way to Qikiqtarjuaq again tomorrow morning and hopefully still be on the ice on Saturday as planned.
The weather conditions remain good with just a few snow flurries in Qikiqtarjuaq tomorrow. Saturday to Monday are forecast as clear with temperatures between -23C to -31C.
Thursday 6th March - AM
To Baffin Island...
Vijay and Antony are on their way to Qikiqtarjuaq (a.k.a "kick") via Iqualiut today. Environment Canada reports good weather conditions in Iqualiut (-27C, visibility 48km, wind calm) and Qikiqtarjuaq (-28C, visibility 24km, wind ENE 4 km/h, 30% chance of flurries)
Wednesday 5th March
Team depart...
From Ilford, Essex where Vijay and Antony have spent the last 4-days packing the last day has arrived. Its been a long year planning this trip and it feels quite
ominous that this day has finally arrived. We fly from London Heathrow to Ottawa, Canada and then on the 6th to Iqualiut and then onto Qikiqtarjuaq. If all goes to plan
we should hit the ice on Saturday!
